Nevergreen Pools provides pool repair in Folsom, covering cracked or broken skimmers and skimmer lids, broken return fittings and eyeballs, leaking unions and valves at the equipment pad, stuck or broken diverter valves and valve actuators, cracked plumbing at the pad, pressure problems from clogged lines or a failing valve, main drain and skimmer basket issues, and pool cleaner repairs.

Call us if the water level is dropping faster than evaporation can explain, if you can see a union or valve weeping at the equipment pad, if a return eyeball is cracked or missing and the jets feel weak, if the skimmer lid is cracked or the basket will not seat right, if a diverter valve is stuck and will not switch between the pool and the spa or the cleaner line, if filter pressure keeps climbing between cleanings, or if the pool cleaner has stalled out or stopped moving on its own.

Nevergreen Pools is a licensed pool company based in Shingle Springs serving the Sacramento region. Call to get a technician scheduled, or book your first repair visit online.

How We Diagnose and Fix It

We start at the equipment pad with the pump running, since most repair calls show up there first as noise, a leak, or a pressure reading that is higher or lower than it should be. We check the filter gauge against what it read when the filter was last cleaned, then isolate sections of plumbing with the pad valves to find where pressure is being lost or where a line is restricted. A union that is weeping gets opened up, the o-ring or gasket replaced, and the fitting reassembled hand tight with the right amount of lubricant, since over-tightening a union is the usual reason a new one starts leaking again within a season. A stuck diverter valve gets pulled apart to check the actuator and the internal disc or gate before we decide whether it needs a seal kit or a full replacement.

Skimmers and return fittings get repaired by the part. A cracked skimmer lid or a broken weir gets swapped on the spot, a chipped or broken skimmer housing usually means opening the deck to replace the skimmer body itself, and a broken return eyeball or fitting is unscrewed and replaced with a matching fitting so the jet angle stays correct. Cracked plumbing at the pad is cut out back to solid pipe and repaired with new PVC and primer, not patched with tape or glue over the crack, since a glued-over crack fails again once it is back under pressure. Main drain covers and skimmer baskets get checked for cracks and correct seating, and a loose or missing main drain cover is corrected the same visit, since it is a suction hazard as well as a flow problem.

• Pressure test and isolate pad plumbing to find the source of a leak or restriction
• Inspect and repair or replace unions, valves, and diverter actuators
• Replace cracked skimmers, skimmer lids, return fittings, and eyeballs
• Cut out and repair cracked pad plumbing with new PVC
• Check main drain covers and skimmer baskets for cracks and correct fit
• Diagnose and repair pool cleaner pumps, hoses, and valves
• Correct calcium hardness and alkalinity so the water stops working against the repair

Pool cleaners get the same treatment as the plumbing. We check the booster pump or the pressure and suction connections, the hose and swivels, and the wall fitting or valve that feeds the cleaner, and we tell you plainly which single part is worn out instead of replacing the whole unit when one part will do. On every repair visit we also test the water, since the fill water here runs low in calcium hardness and alkalinity and pH drifts fast once it is out of balance. Low alkalinity water that swings low on pH etches plaster and eats away at heater heat exchangers, and both of those problems can look like equipment failure when the real cause is the water itself, so we correct the chemistry at the same time we fix the part.

Repair or Replace

Pools built in the 1980s and 1990s usually still have the original single-speed pump and a sand or DE filter that is reaching the end of its service life. A single-speed pump with a bad start capacitor or a worn shaft seal is almost always worth repairing. A pump with bearings that are already growling, or a sand filter with a cracked multiport valve body, usually is not, because parts for an old filter system cost more than they are worth once the tank or the valve body itself is failing. Newer subdivisions have more pebble finishes, variable-speed pumps, cartridge filters, and salt systems, and repairs there tend to be electronic: a bad drive board on a variable-speed pump, a worn-out cartridge element, or a salt cell that has scaled up and stopped producing chlorine. We check the failed part against the age and condition of the rest of the equipment before we recommend a fix, and when a repair no longer makes financial sense, we say so and size the replacement to the pool instead of swapping in whatever happens to fit.