Nevergreen Pools provides pool repair in Tempe, covering cracked or broken skimmers and skimmer lids, broken return fittings and eyeballs, leaking unions and valves on the equipment pad, stuck or broken diverter valves and valve actuators, cracked pad plumbing, pressure problems from clogged lines or a failing valve, and main drain and skimmer basket issues. A cracked union or a stuck valve does not fix itself, and every week it runs the pool loses water you are paying to refill, wastes chemicals that leak out along with it, or makes the pump work harder and add to the electric bill.

Call us if a skimmer lid is cracked or missing and lets debris fall straight past the basket, if a return fitting or eyeball is broken off and the jet will not aim or shut off, if a union or valve on the equipment pad is wet or dripping, if a diverter valve is stuck and will not switch between the pool, spa, or cleaner line, if filter pressure keeps climbing no matter how often you clean it, if the main drain cover is cracked or missing, or if your pool cleaner has stopped moving or keeps getting stuck in the same spot.

We serve Tempe in partnership with Beyond Pool Cleaning, a pool service company based nearby. Call to get a technician scheduled, or book your first repair visit online.

How We Diagnose and Fix It

The visit starts at the equipment pad, not the pool, because most repair calls trace back to a fitting, valve, or line that has failed under pressure. Many of these homes were built in the 1960s through the 1980s, and the pad plumbing and skimmers on them are original or close to it, so unions and valves that have been hand tightened at every filter cleaning for decades are often worn at the threads and o-rings before they ever start dripping where you can see it. On rental and investment properties, a small leak at a union can run for weeks between tenants before anyone reports it, and by the time we get the call it has soaked the ground under the pad and started eating at the fitting body, turning what would have been a gasket swap into a full valve replacement. Pressure problems get diagnosed the same way, by comparing today's filter gauge reading to what it read after the last cleaning, since a fast climb usually means a line is restricted somewhere between the skimmer and the pump rather than the filter media itself needing attention.

• Pressure test the pad plumbing and check every union, valve, and diverter valve for wear or weeping
• Inspect skimmer bodies, weirs, and lids for cracks or broken hardware
• Check return fittings and eyeballs for cracks, stripped threads, or restricted flow
• Open the main drain cover and basket for cracks, missing screws, or blockage
• Run the pool cleaner through a full cycle to find a stuck wheel, a torn hose, or a bad valve
• Check filter pressure against a clean baseline to catch a clogged line or a failing valve early

Whether a part gets repaired or replaced depends on what is actually failing. A cracked skimmer lid or a worn union o-ring is a straightforward swap done on the spot. A skimmer body cracked through the wall, or pad plumbing that has already been patched once, usually needs to be cut out and replumbed, because a patch on brittle PVC tends to crack again within a season, often somewhere harder to reach the next time. Return fittings and eyeballs get replaced rather than repaired, since a cracked fitting body cannot be sealed and a stripped eyeball threads loose again within weeks no matter how many times it gets tightened back down. Hard Tempe water scales valves and fittings from the inside, so a diverter valve that is stiff or hard to turn is often full of mineral buildup rather than mechanically broken, and clearing the scale is faster and cheaper than replacing the whole valve. We check the diverter actuator and handle for wear at the same time, since a valve that turns hard by hand will strip a motorized actuator within a few cycles if it is left as is.