Nevergreen Pools provides pool repair in Granite Bay, covering cracked or broken skimmers and skimmer lids, broken return fittings and eyeballs, leaking unions and valves on the equipment pad, stuck or broken diverter valves and valve actuators, cracked pad plumbing, pressure problems from a clogged line or a failing valve, main drain and skimmer basket issues, and pool cleaner repairs.

Call us if a skimmer lid is cracked, warped, or won't sit flush anymore, if you see water weeping from a union or valve on the equipment pad, if the diverter valve or its actuator won't switch cleanly between the pool, the spa, and the water feature, if the in-floor cleaning system has stopped popping heads in sequence, if filter pressure keeps climbing between cleanings or won't build up at all, if a return eyeball is cracked, stuck, or missing, or if the pool cleaner has stalled out, is dragging its hose, or won't climb the walls anymore.

Nevergreen Pools is a licensed pool company based in Shingle Springs serving the Sacramento region. Call to get a technician out, or book your first visit online.

How We Diagnose and Fix It

Repair calls around here pick up in early fall, after a full summer of the pump, valves, and in-floor cleaning system running every day without a break, right as oak leaves and acorns start loading up the skimmer baskets. A pool that handled the heat fine in June starts showing the wear in September. A diverter valve that was sticking a little now won't switch at all, and a union that was seeping a drop now has a visible puddle on the deck.

We start at the equipment pad, since most repair calls trace back to something there. We check every union and valve for weeping or cracking, cycle the diverter valve and its actuator through a full switch between the pool, the spa, and any water feature, and check pressure at the filter against what the system should be running given the pump and plumbing size. A lot of these pools sit on large lots with the pad set well away from the house, which means long plumbing runs, and a long run shows pressure problems and leaks that a short run would never produce. We also check skimmer lids and baskets, return fittings and eyeballs, and the main drain cover for cracking or looseness, and we run the pool cleaner through a cycle to see where it's catching, stalling, or losing suction.

Because the water here comes off the lake with low calcium and alkalinity, we also check valve seats, o-rings, and gaskets for the pitting and swelling that soft water causes over time, since a part that still looks fine on a hard-water pool can already be failing here. Plaster and pebble finishes and heater exchangers take the same hit, so a repair call on a pool with chronically out-of-balance water usually turns up more than one failed part at once.

• Test and cycle every valve and actuator on the pad
• Pressure-test unions and check for weeping or cracked fittings
• Inspect skimmer lids, baskets, return eyeballs, and the main drain cover
• Check filter pressure against the pump and plumbing size
• Run the pool cleaner through a full cycle to isolate the fault
• Check valve seats, o-rings, and gaskets for wear from soft water

On repair versus replace, we give a straight answer. A cracked skimmer lid, a single bad union, or a valve actuator that has failed on its own is a straightforward repair. A pump that is original to a pool built in the 1980s or 1990s, still running on the single speed it came with, is usually past the point where another repair makes sense, since the running cost of that old pump outweighs a new variable-speed unit within a season or two. Automation on these older pools is often original equipment too, so when we replace a valve actuator or a pump, we check that it will still talk to the existing control system before we install anything.